Amanda Harvey: Tirana, Albania: Week Three

Wow time has flown by. It seems as though I was just arriving at my apartment in Tirana yesterday.

One highlight from last week that I don’t know how I forgot to mention in my last post was that the rest of the Michigan intern group and I were interviewed on Albanian national television. In my opinion, I can now say I’m famous…in Albania.

The reason that we were on Top Channel (one of Albania’s largest morning channels) was because my director who runs the National Coastal Agency, Auron Tare, has some pretty great connections. We called up someone he knew at the t.v. station and asked if they would be interested in filming a piece about why students from the University of Michigan came to live in Albania this summer and intern at various ministries. The interview can be found at the link below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAFYj_fZA3E. (Check out after minute 12)

We were each interviewed individually and asked questions about the specific projects were we working at the various ministries. During our group interview, the news broadcaster asked us more informal questions like what places we liked most in Albania, how we feel about living here, and what our experiences have been like so far. When you watch the video you probably won’t be able to understand it because we have voice overs in Albanian. (I still recommend watching the video because the voice overs are pretty hilarious seeing as they sound nothing like us).

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If I don’t come back to the U.S. for school in the fall it’s because I have gone on to pursue stardom in Albania 😉

Also, another part of last week’s blog I didn’t get a chance to go into more detail about was our group trip to Butrint.

Butrint is an archaeological site 18 kilometers from Saranda. Butrint is also a Unesco World Heritiage site. Auron was actually the director of Butrint National Park. He helped create the first management plan for the park and saw that the area was protected, managed, ultimately transformed into one of the most successful tourist attractions in the county.

To say Butrint has a rich historical history is an understatement. It’s history spans from the Bronze Age until the 19th century and the area contains archeological sites and evidence ranging from ancient Roman ruins to occupation by the Venetians. The area has seen Greeks, the Roman Empire, the Byzantine Empire and the Ottoman Turks. In addition to the beauty of the ancient ruins, Butrint is located on a hill overlooking the Vivari Channel and has gorgeous natural scenery.

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Peixin, Siri, and Will

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After our day at Butrint, the group and I bused back to Saranda and got to enjoy a day at the beach. We took a night bus back to Tirana at 10:00 p.m. It was pretty late but at least it was dark out so I didn’t have to watch our bus wind around curvy mountains.

My last work week in Tirana introduced me to a new project that I think will help me contribute to the Coastal Agency and it doesn’t require knowing  Albanian. The National Coastal Agency is going to send out newsletters to inform readers about the projects they are working on and general news about the coastlines. Auron teamed me up with a co worker, Anisa, to help design layouts for the newsletters. I’m in the process of teaching myself photoshop in order to create layouts for the magazine.

In honor of my last week in Albania I wanted to list some of my favorite things about staying there.

  • The call to prayer (Albania is a predominately Muslim country so five times a day I would hear the call to prayer coming out of speakers at the top of the mosques in the city. The prayer is very beautiful to hear.)
  • Sufllaqe (this is very similar to a gyro and is basically a pita wrap filled with lamb, cucumbers, tomatoes, french fries, tzatziki sauce, and ketchup. I think I ate one every single day.)
  • The history (Albania has a very rich history but not many people know much about it. I loved living in the capital and learning more about the country’s past)
  • I’ve probably mentioned this in my other blog posts but I’m going to mention again how amazing their coffee is.
  • The people (my co workers are so nice and always fun to be around. There is always positive energy in the office. We also made a really good friend Erjon while in Albania. It’s always great to hang out with him. He’s also a wonderful chief and cooked homemade lasagna for us the day before I left Albania.)
  • The mountains
  • The language (although I only know about 20 words in Albanian, it is a fascinating language to listen to and very unique).

The list could go on and on. I’m very blessed to have had three wonderful weeks in the Albania. My blog is a little behind so I’m actually in Wales right now starting a second internship for the summer. The way my whole travel schedule worked out is that I will now be in Wales until the end of July and then I will be returning to Albania for the rest of August. So, this is not a goodbye to Albania but more of a, “see ya later”.

In Wales, I’m interning at Admiral insurance in their Communications Department. I have another blog coming soon with all the details of my first week in Cardiff. 🙂

Amanda Harvey: Week 2: Life in Tirana

Before I go into talking about my second week in Tirana, I wanted to mention some highlights about my trip to Montenegro last weekend.

First off, Montenegro is amazing. The name of Montenegro literally means “black mountain” and the name is definitely obvious when you visit the county.  Montenegro is almost entirely mountains and those mountains average more than 2,100m (7,000 ft) in elevation. The country literally looks like someplace out of a movie. It’s a beautiful place see especially when you’ve lived in a very flat Michigan all your life. The car ride from Tirana to Ulcinj (our first stop in Montenegro) took about two hours. Ulcinj lies right off the Adriatic Coast and is surrounded by mountains and colorful houses.

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Our group visited an ancient castle which was built by lllyrians, a people of Indo-European origin. Then we had dinner at a restaurant off the water. The view wasn’t that bad. 😉

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We ended up driving to our first hostel in Podgorica and fell asleep almost right away because we were exhausted from traveling and it took us about a half an hour to find our hostel. The next day we woke to a amazing free breakfast which was pretty much just bread and more bread. The man who made us breakfast gave us each three different kinds of croissants. He also made Turkish coffee which was extremely strong but very good. In the hostel, we met people from all over the world. There was a women from Japan who was traveling Europe by herself, a man from Ukraine also traveling by himself but then heading to Russia to study film, and an Australian couple who worked at the hostel and cooked us breakfast.

After breakfast, we then headed from Podgorica to Cetinje but not before we stopped at another local cafe for more coffee. (Europeans like their coffee) There wasn’t much to see is Podgorica except for a few monuments and a bunch of weird robot sculptures that looked like transformers.

The main square had a large fountain and that was pretty much the central area of the capital city.

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In Centinje, which is one of the oldest cities in Montenegro, the streets were really wide and the houses were very colorful. There was also a main square in Centje where everyone in the town was gathered talking and visiting with one another. There were also a ton of little kids around the area riding small, plastic, battery powered trucks. (Definitely made be relive my Barbie jeep days). We walked around Centje, had dinner, and then headed on the road again for Kotor.

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After many many hours of driving around winding mountainous roads with crazy drivers passing us all along the way, we finally made it to Kotor. Kotor basically looked like Minas Tirith (I just had to throw in the Lord of the Rings reference) It is a medieval city surrounded by water and mountains.

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Just around one of the mountains near Kotor were the boarders of Croatia and Bosnia Herzegovina. The “old city” of Kotor was so beautiful and romantic. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and was built between the 12th and 14th centuries. The city is almost entirely smooth stone and throughout the city there are churches, shops, and of course a lot of restaurants and cafes. All along the mountain behind the old city are ancient fortifications. (I definitely wouldn’t want to try to attack it) The city wall extend over 4 kilometers.

We arrived at our hostel in the old city, threw all our stuff in the room and went right back out into town. Our group sat by the water and watched the sun go down over the mountains. It was truly breathtaking. We all sat by the water and talked for a couple hours about so many things including different cultures, politics, and social issues both abroad and in the US.  Although the material seems like it would be heavy to talk about in such a peaceful setting, our conversations were great and always stayed respectful. This was one of the aspects I loved most about staying in hostels too. So many people from very different countries throughout the world stay in hostels. Every person I have meet in hostels has been open-minded, respectful, interesting and so fun to be around. That night in Kotor, our group met people from Singapore, California, the Netherlands, and Montenegro and we talked for hours about our lives, ideas, and experiences.

Our new mantra after staying at hostels was that, “life should be a hostel”.  I think I’ve learned so much meeting people from different countries at hostels it’s hard to even recount everything we discussed during our conversations. These experiences bring people together in a very beautiful way.

The night wasn’t all deep conversation however. The manager of the hostel and I had a fun yet intense game of floor tennis in the hostel lobby. The court was drawn with chalk, and the racquets were cutting boards, and the balls were ping pong balls…(hey whatever works right?) Regardless of the equipment, I still managed to beat the hostel owner in two games. 🙂 He wanted to play a third game but by then my knees were already bruised from the several games we played beforehand.

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Unfortunately, like all my time in the Balkans so far, the day went by way too quickly. After floor tennis, long conversations with good company, and hours of travel, it was already 2:00 am in the morning and time to head to bed.

The next morning Will, Peixin, and I woke up early and went to an Orthodox church since Will is Orthodox. I’m not Orthodox but it was really interesting to watch the ceremony. The service was in Church Slavonic so I didn’t understand a thing, but the church was absolutely gorgeous and it was an unforgettable experience.

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Before we left Kotor to head back to Albania we had a really good lunch at one of the restaurants in the city and then we were off for a six hour drive back to Tirana.

Life in Tirana

Going into my second week of living in Tirana was definitely full of transitions, but I was able to adjust very quickly thanks for the support and advice from the other Michigan interns who had already been there for about a week before I arrived (shout out to Peixin, Will and Siri). Also, another Michigan intern Eni, arrived the week after me and she fluent in Albanian. She was so helpful when trying to communicate with Albanians who didn’t speak much English and teaching me basic Albanian phrases.

A couple things I had to get used to in Albania

-Boiling tap water to make drinkable water (water standards are different in Albania and the city itself didn’t have guaranteed safe drinking water, bottled water was also very cheap)
-Hang drying laundry (the energy needed to power a dryer in Albania is crazy expensive so no one uses them)
-The elevators (they’re so tiny)
-Buying groceries very frequently rather than in bulk trips (Europe does not use the kind of preservatives that the U.S. uses in food therefore it makes more sense to frequently buy food rather than buy a great deal of food at the grocery store)
-Limited wifi (this is actually kind of nice, I don’t feel the need to check my phone often)

Work has also been going well too. I helped design a hat for the staff of the National Coastal Agency, also known as Agjensia Kombetare e Bregdetit. I’ve also been working on drafting letters to various research centers and universities asking if they would be interested in conducting research projects in Albania. Opportunities to conduct  research in areas such as anthropology, archeology, marine/coastal biology, and environmental studies are just a few areas of study available in Albania.

Some of the highlights of Albania include

Really cheap food (I can get byrek, which is basically Albania vegetable/meat pie, for 30 leke which is less than 30 cents in the U.S.)
Coffee, coffee, coffee (Albania has really great coffee and coffee breaks are a regular part of the work day)

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The people (My co workers have been very welcoming and so nice to be around, almost everyone in the office speaks English too so it’s easy to communicate)
The office (The National Coastal Agency is a beautiful office to work in)

 

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The travel (the second week in Albania our group headed down to a city called Saranda in southern Albania. We were lucky enough to have Auron Tare, who runs the National Coastal Agency, take us down south with a military vehicle and driver. Our driver’s name was Wilson or Vilson in Albanian. He was so nice! We tried to speak to Wilson in English so he could practice his English language skills and in the process he also taught us a lot of useful words in Albanian.)

 

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I’m a little behind in my blogging but there’s more to come about my last week in Albania, site seeing at Butrint, and my first week in Cardiff, Wales. Mirupafshim!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Amanda H: Detroit -> Italy -> Tirana -> all over Montenegro -> back to Tirana -> omg I’m already leaving for Wales in 10 days

Yesterday marked the my first week in Albania. It feels like time here is going by so quickly because everything is so new and interesting and exciting. Time really does fly when you’re having fun.

So far, I’ve been introduced to a completely new work environment, moved to the capital of a very uncommon country (and as of now have survived a week without hot water because the land lord is hard to get in touch with), driven all over Montenegro on a weekend trip, learned various phrases is Albanian all of which I have to say 50 times to pronounce correctly, met a lot of great people and have become addicted to Albanian street food and cappuccinos.

Surprisingly, although Albania is not a common country for people to travel to let alone intern in (Albania doesn’t really have an internship culture at all), I feel very comfortable here. I’m living with two other Michigan students, William and Peixin, and there are also two other Michigan students living in another apartment, Siri and Eni. I think everyone here definitely makes the overwhelming feeling of living and working in a different country comfortable.

Work is definitely a really welcoming and comfortable environment too. I’m working at the National Coastal Agency in Albania which in a part of their Ministry of Economy, Tourism, Trade, and Entrepreneurship (try saying that 10 times fast). The office is awesome and my co-workers are great people. (See pics below) The mission of the National Coastal Agency is to protect, preserve, and promote Albania’s coastlines. So far, my main project is drafting letters to send to University of Michigan representatives asking if they would have interest in conducting research or fieldwork in Albania.

Albania has a very rich historical past with connections to ancient Greece and Rome. Albania was also completely isolated from the rest of Europe until 1990 under a dictator. The country is now an emerging democracy and is striving to become a member of the European Union. Because Albania is still undergoing many changes and development in the country, there is not much structure to my internship as there is for internships in the U.S. There isn’t even a word in Albanian to translate the word internship. To some extent, this is makes going to work hard because I have no clear or set standards of what is expected of me at work let alone official tasks. This may also be a good thing however. I think this internship is allowing me to not only adapt to a very different work environment that I am not used to working in but it is also allowing me to be more creative and utilize my own strengths and experiences to contribute, even in a small way, to this country.

One of my favorite aspects of Albanian work culture is that everyone in the office loves to go out for coffee breaks. When I say coffee breaks I don’t mean the typical American, let’s go grab a coffee for 15 minutes. Here everyone takes their time to go out to coffee, sit at a cafe, and talk to each another. Every time I go to get coffee with a UM intern or an Albanian co-worker we’re not looking at our phones at the table (which also may be due to the spotty WiFi) but we’re enjoying each others company. In Albania, I feel a lot more free to not rush though the day. The culture is definitely slower paced and more relaxed.

This week I  feel like I haven’t gotten much work done because I’m still getting a feel for how business is conducted in the office and I’m still in the process of deciding what types of projects I want to work on this summer. I’m picking up a good amount of basic Albanian phrases to say to my co-workers (Good morning is “Mirëmëngjes”,  goodbye is “Mirupafshim”, thank you is “Faleminderit”). Although I can’t speak Albanian very well people seem to appreciate my effort to communicate with them. Many of the younger co-workers speak English very well so communication with them is never a problem.
Overall this first work week has been great. I’m learning to adapt to a new environment, figuring out how I want to contribute to the Coastal Agency this summer, and really getting to know my co-workers and the other Michigan students I’m with. I could write pages and pages of my observations, experiences, language struggles, and food obsessions in Albania but I’ll try to end here and write other blog posts about specific topics and experiences. For example, this past weekend I went to Montenegro with the other Michigan students and our Albanian friend, Erjon. I’ll definitely write a separate post about that trip because it’s another amazing experience that I could talk about for hours.

Stay tuned for another post about my hostel experiences (including my mad skills at floor tennis) and our car ride through the black mountains of Montenegro.

 

 

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Office at the National Coastal Agency in Albania

 

 

 

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National Coastal Agency

 

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Apartment in Albania (Hi Peixin)

 

 

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View from my apartment in Tirana

Amanda H – Week 0: Why Albania?

Why Albania?

Over the past 10 months since I made the decision to intern in Albania this summer I’ve been asked a lot of questions from family, friends, and classmates. Where is Albania? Is that in the Middle East? What language do they speak there? What kind of government do they have? Why Albania?

My answers: Above Greece and across from Italy. No it’s in Southeastern Europe. They speak Albanian. Parliamentary democracy.

That last question however does not have a simple answer.

Why Albania?

There are many reasons why I decided to go to Albania this summer but what stands out most in my mind is that I’m going because it is completely out of my comfort zone.

Albania is far away. It’s not the typical European country that you travel to like France or Italy. It was an isolated country up until 1990 under a communist regime. It’s uncommon and unexplored. It’s an adventure.

So now the final countdown has begun and I’m leaving in 10 days. I’m sure that my experience in Albania will give me even more answers to the question, “why Albania?” so stay tuned.