In 1987–88, I spent a year conducting research in and around the city of Bondoukou in east Côte d’Ivoire. I pursued two projects. One explored on the use of Arabic script in the production of items that ensured the spiritual and physical wellbeing of the individuals who commissioned them from Muslim clerics. The second, examined three performance traditions that use masks, focusing primarily on a masquerade known as Do. Though I did not return to Bondoukou, I stayed in touch with my research assistant, Aboubacar Timité. In January (2025), I returned to Bondoukou to visit with him and to see how the city and some of the villages in which I worked in 1988 had changed. The week I spent there passed very quickly. Sadly, most of the people with whom I worked almost 40 years ago have passed away, but there are a few with whom I reconnected. The city is much larger. A new university, Université de Bondoukou, has recently opened, a beautiful campus designed by the Tunisian architect, Slah Allala. I traveled to two villages, Sorobango and Bondo, in which I had spent a good deal of time in 1988. Both have grown considerably and many of the mud brick buildings I encountered 40 years ago have been replaced with concrete structures. The mud brick mosques, originally built in the 18th or 19th centuries, are still standing. The one in Sorobango is well maintained having been designated (along with other mosques located in northern Côte d’Ivoire) a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the mosque in Bondo is in a poor state of repair. I was curious to learn whether Do continues to be performed and learned that the masquerade is still a popular mode of entertainment in both communities. Thanks to Aboubacar, I was able to commission a performance of Do in Bondo during my visit. It was spectacular and great fun!
