From the Archives #59 – The Kelsey Blog

From the Archives #59

By Sebastián Encina, Collections Manager

1919–1920 proved an adventurous year for Francis Kelsey and his team, and we have been sharing those adventures over the past few months through this blog. Last month, we saw how the adventure began, with a train ride from Detroit to New York City, followed by a sea voyage to England. For the month of September, the team stayed in those locations, wandering from Edinburgh to London.

For this month’s “From the Archives,” we continue this journey. In early October 1919, the team was still in England, finishing up some travels there. On October 10, they are in London, and they move south to Folkestone, near Dover. From there, Kelsey, Swain, and others board ships to cross the Channel. They arrive in Boulogne, France, and quickly make their way to Paris. While in Paris, we get glimpses of the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, the Arc de Triomphe, and of life on the streets. Swain captured a garbage wagon, a woman sweeping, a fish stand on the street, and a flower pushcart. Daily life as it happened in Paris 1919. And time for sightseeing.

After a few days in Paris, they move on to Meaux, Chateau-Thierry, Rheims. They see through cathedrals, bridges, and various structures along the way. And they get reminders of the recent past. Ruined houses and debris. Homes “pitted with bullets.” Wrecked towns, wrecked factories, a wrecked armored car, wrecked forests and trees. Swain sees French soldiers, German prisoners eating soup and clearing rubbish, a war cemetery, a German prisoner’s camp, a shell dump, German headquarters.

From Rheims (or Reims), they move to Berry-au-Bac and onto Soissons. In Berry-au-Bac, Swain captures Kelsey and a French officer standing by a German trench. The photo appears odd, as Swain accidentally double-exposed the frame. We see trees superimposed on the photo, and Kelsey’s face is distorted. The hat, the build, and the beard are definitely Kelsey, even without being able to see the face.

Once they have seen the vicinity, the team returns to Paris, where they visit the Louvre and see other monuments throughout the city. While outside Paris, Swain used the Cirkut camera to capture Berry-au-Bac. The Cirkut camera was designed to use special film, and had a spring mechanism that would render panoramic photographs. An earlier “From the Archives” blog entry highlighted a number of these panoramics, as it was used throughout North Africa, Turkey, and Europe.

Throughout it all, Swain took notes on his photographs so he could remember and document them later. He was using several cameras: the Cirkut, a handheld Kodak camera, and a view camera. He had to keep track of all these images somehow. And it is those notes that led to our archival photographs database.

It must have been shocking to see the remains of war and the destruction from the Great War. Due to the ongoing conflict, it was difficult for Americans to visit Europe. And when they did, they found a very different Europe from what they remembered. As noted numerous times in previous blog entries, Swain captured life returning to a new normal. People in the streets making a living. Clearing up the debris. Getting on to new business.

From France, the team would carry on to other parts of Europe. The last entry for October is the 20th, so our next photos will be from November 1919. Those will be presented next month, so be sure to return to see where our adventurers rode off to next!

October 10: London and passage to France via the English Channel

photo: National Gallery and St. Martin’s, London
“National Gallery and St. Martin’s, London.” KS013.01.
“How autos are carried on the channel steamers.” KS013.07.
“Bow of steamer and head of pier.” KS013.05.
“Chalk cliffs near the harbor, from the steamer.” KS013.04.
“Another view of the chalk cliffs near Folkestone.” KS013.08.
“Cloud and sunlight effect, from the steamer.” KS013.09.
“Fishing boat and tug. French coast line in the distance.” KS013.11.
“A little of the city seen from the steamer.” KS014.01.

October 11–14: Paris, France

“Statue of the city of Strassburg, Place de la Concorde.” KS014.03.
“Eiffel Tower at sunset, from the Seine.” KS014.04.
“Push cart peddlers in the Rue St. Honoré (not there in 1925).” KS014.06.
“A nearer view of the old women with the push carts, Rue St. Honoré.” KS014.07.
“Part of the Tuileries Garden and the Arc du Carousel.” KS014.08.
“A news stand, kept by a woman.” KS014.09.
“A Paris garbage wagon.” KS014.10.
“Old woman sweeping by garbage wagon. Shutter too slow.” KS014.11.
“A flower push cart. Poor.” KS014.12.
“A street fish stand. Little out of focus.” KS015.01.
“Narrow uphill street leading toward a Montmartre.” KS015.02.
“A bit of the Monmartre cemetery, showing the density of population.” KS015.03.
“Just a bit of the narrow part of the Rue de Rivoli.” KS015.04.
“General view of the Place de la Concorde, traffic in foreground.” KS015_06.
“One of the masculine public conveniences of Paris — typical of Western Europe!” KS015.07.
“Temporary victory monument, by the Avenue Champs Elysées. Figure is the Victory of Samothrace.” KS015.08.
“Another rather more distance view of the temporary victory monument; it is also from a different point of view.” KS015.11.
“Part of the facade of the Grand Palais, where the auto show was held.” KS015.12.
“Part of the Paris Auto Show, Grand Palais.” KS015.09.
“A bridge over the Seine and the Eiffel Tower.” KS016.02.
“On top the Arc du Triomphe.” KS016.03.
“One wedge of buildings as seen from the top of the Arc du Triomphe. Hazy in distance.” KS016.04.
“Mr. Flack on top the Arc du Triomphe.” KS016.05.
“Toward the Eiffel Tower from the top of the Arc du Triomphe.” KS016.06.

October 15: Meaux, Chateau Thierry, and Reims, France

“Facade of the cathedral.” KS016.07.
“The Sossuet Memorial, in the cathedral of Meaux.” KS016.08.
“Nave of the cathedral toward the apse.” KS016.09.
“One of the aisles of the cathedral.” KS016.10.
“Street view at Meaux.” KS016.11.
“Bridge over the Marne at Trilport.” KS017.01.
“Ruined houses and street choked up with debris.” KS017.02.
“Just a street corner in the town.” KS017.04.
“Bridge held by the Americans, view from the end by the Germans. Temporary bridge in position in the view.” KS017.06.
“Another bridge from the same end. See KS017.06.” KS017.07.
“Just a street view. House roofs knocked to pieces.” KS017.08.
“Same bridge from the American end. See KS017.08 and KS017.07.” KS017.09.
“Another view from the same end showing houses on other side riddled with American fire. A metal plate has been set in the bridge approach on this side reading, ‘On this site will be erected a monument commemorating the services of the 3rd Division, U.S.A., 1918.'” KS017.10.
“More ruined houses.” KS017.11.
“Wreckage of an ammunition train blown up by mines.” KS018.03.
“War cemetery. White crosses French; black, German. On the French crosses, name and “Mort Pour la France.” Reims. KS018.05.

October 16–17: Reims

“Toward Rheims from road running northeast from town. Wire entanglements on right and left. Trees more than half destroyed by gun fire. German front lines ran through hollow at foot of hill. Rheims cathedral dimly seen in the distance. Weather cloudy and hazy at time of exposure. Shows how Germans could observe effect of every shell fired at the cathedral.” 7.0001.
“Toward Rheims from more nearly north than the preceding. Shows same road at left. Wire entanglements in immediate foreground. Shows cathedral and some of the town. Countryside waste of weeds, trenches and wire entanglements. Taken under adverse weather conditions.” Text attached to photo: “Reims and its cathedral as seen through a curtain of rain from the second line German trenches, October 16, 1919. Wrecked barbed wire entanglement in the foreground. Photo by George Swain, University of Michigan collection.” 7.0002.
“Facade of Rheims cathedral, taken with 12-inch lens. From the square directly in front. On right and left, rubbish of wrecked buildings cleared from the street. Note holes knocked in towers.” Text attached to photo: “Shell of Reims Cathedral. The interior was gutted by fire. Part of the vaulted ceiling and roof fell in. Much of the ceiling still left over the nave is cracked and threatens to fall, so that visitors are not allowed to pass under it. Photo by George R. Swain, October 16, 1919, through a thin curtain of rain. University of Michigan collection.” 7.0007.
“Long-focus view of part of one side of cathedral to show damage by fire and bombardment.” 7.0011.
“Interior of cathedral looking from the rear toward the apse. Visitors allowed only inside the door for fear roof might fall. Note hole in back end of roof. Also two smaller holes at right overhead. Stained glass shattered to tiny bits. Note big unexploded shell in forground. Custodian asserted not one shell exploded inside the building.” 7.0012.
“Hotel Lafayette, our army Cadillac in front.” KS018.08.
“Square out in front of the cathedral, not looking toward the cathedral.” KS018.09.
“A glimpse from the roof of the Hotel Lafayette.” KS018.12.
“Across the street from a window on the second floor of the hotel.” KS019.01.
“From the roof of the Hotel Lafayette, to the left.” KS019.02.
“Some of the ruins out in front of the cathedral.” KS019.03.
“The towers of the Rheims cathedral –camera pointed up purposely.” KS019.04.
“Tiny corner tower on building near front of cathedral.” KS019.07.
“Right hand side of the roof of the cathedral.” KS019.08.
“German prisoners crossing in front of the cathedral.” KS019.09.
“In the square in front of the cathedral. Mrs. Kelsey and Rediger, our chauffeur and the army Cadillac.” KS019.10.
“German prisoners clearing away rubbish from the front of the cathedral.” KS019.11.
“Serving German prisoners with soup for lunch, out in front of the cathedral.” KS019.12.

October 17–18: Berry-au-Bac and Soissons

“On the road from Rheims to Berry-au-Bac. Trees all wrecked. Ruins of town on the left as well.” KS020.01.
“Wrecked town passed on the road. Nothing but a few walls.” KS020.02.
“Old dugouts and trees wrecked by gun fire.” KS020.04.
“Wrecked sugar factory at Berry-au-Bac.” KS020.08.
“Our auto, the road and a sign “Achtung! Eisenbahn.” not far from the bridge at Berry-au-Bac. It was a little narrow gauge road, presumably for ammunition and supplies.” KS020.10.
“Professor Kelsey and French officer standing by German trench of 1914 (probably a double, but possibly of use).” KS021.08.
“Looking down the ridge between the Aisne and the Miette brook. The line of trees begining at the left and extending three quarters the way across the view, marks the course of the Aisne. The trees at the right mark the Miette brook. A German prisoners’ camp is near the right. This side of that, and crossing the Miette runs the road to Laon. The view is diversified with old trenches, shell holes and the remains of wire entanglemnts. A dug out in the foreground. The view does not extend far enough to the left to show Berry-au-Bac. Size, 9 1/2 x 30 in.” Cirkut001.
“Looking down along the ridge between the Aisne and Miette, especially the side toward the Miette, marked by the trees. The road down the ridge and going to Laon shows in the center of the view. Old trenches and shell holes right and left. The Aisne is located by the trees in the distance at the extreme left of the picture. Size, 9 1/2 x 28 in.” Cirkut004.
“Shell dump. Mostly 75’s by the road from Berry-au-Bac to Laon. Rediger standing at right.” KS021.01.
“German prisoners’ camp and wire stockage, near the Miette brook, at the left of the road to Laon. This is near the slope where Caesar drew up his troops.” KS021.04.
“Wrecked armored car, camouflaged, probably French, on the Miette side of the slope of the ridge. Easton Kelsey inside for scale.” KS021.05.
“Remains of German camoflage by the road running down the ridge between the Aisne and the Miette.” KS021.09.
“Canal boats by empty canal by Berry-au-Bac, seen from the crater, Hill 108.” KS021.10.
“Wrecked forest on the road to Pontavert near Berry-au-Bac.” KS021.11.
“Ruins of Pontavert.” KS021.12.
“Headquarters of German commander, road from Pontavert to Soissons.” KS022.01.
“Rediger replacing a tire on the Cadillac. Not far from Soissons.” KS022.02.
“Pair of traction engines, one each side, pulling four-plow back and forth across the field. Near Soissons.” KS022.03.
“Part of the wrecked facade of the Soissons cathedral.” KS022.04.
“Showing how the backbone of the Soissons cathedral was broken. The structure was damaged beyond repair. A part seems to have been left as a monument. I saw it in 1925 and 1926.” KS022.05.

October 20: Paris

“Company of French soldiers resting by the Seine, Paris.” KS022.06.
“Part of the facade of the Louvre.” KS022.08.
“The Gambetta statue and its environment, Tuileries Gardens.” KS022.09.
“The end of the Arc du Carousel toward the Seine.” KS022.10.
“The Arc du Carousel in its environment, seen from the side toward the Place de la Concorde.” KS022.11.
“One of the fountains of the Place de la Concorde.” KS022.12.
“One of the monuments at the head of the bridge of Alexander III.” KS023.01.

1 thought on “From the Archives #59”

  1. Really enjoyed this blog. The photos were an edifying part that demonstrated so well the conditions that were encountered during this post-war time.

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