Over the past few months, we have been recounting Francis Kelsey’s, George Swain’s, and the rest of the team’s year-long trip to Europe, Southwest Asia, and North Africa. Back in September of 1919, the team made their way from Ann Arbor to Detroit and then to New York City in order to cross the Atlantic so they could visit those areas affected by the Great War (World War I). The trip lasted through August 1920, when they returned to Michigan.
At the onset of the trip, the team landed in the United Kingdom and made their way south, visiting several towns and taking stock of the land which had been ravaged by war for years. They also were able to connect with colleagues and friends. Over the course of months, they made their way across Europe, heading toward Greece, Turkey, and Egypt.
For this month’s “From the Archives,” we present the continuation of this trip. In November 1919, the team found themselves primarily in Romania (“Roumania”), Bulgaria, and Serbia (“Servia”). They began the month in Paris (KS023.02, mandatory Eiffel Tower view), then made their way east through Switzerland and arrived in Serbia. In Serbia, we mostly see the surrounding landscapes, the train station, and some soldiers. We also catch a glimpse of Easton Kelsey, Francis Kelsey’s son. It was not just the University of Michigan faculty and staff on this trip, but some family members as well.
The team continued their voyage to Romania, staying in Bucharest. Swain captures life there, from the view from their hotel room to the procession of the royal carriage. We also see children (bootblacks) waiting for work, various buildings they came across, the market and all its wares for sale (soap, sausages, rugs, books, etc.), and an interesting ad for Ford automobiles. Outside of Bucharest, in Adam Klissi (modern Adamclisi), we see a selection of photos for the Tropaeum Traiani, which was originally constructed in 109 CE.
Swain and the rest visit other regions of Romania, where they see the effects of the war, before they arrive in Bulgaria. Once in Sofia, they visit the museum, observe the locals, and admire the buildings. And here is where they ended in late November 1919. Though already in Europe for three months, their journey is still just beginning. Kelsey and crew will soon arrive in Turkey, where they will ring in 1920. Be sure to return next month to see the amazing views they will treat us to.
November 9, 1919: Paris, France
“The Eiffel tower at sunset.” KS023.02.
November 15: Brigue, Switzerland
“Ascending the valley toward Brigue; shows head of train as well as view.” KS023.04.“Parts of two cars of the Simplon-Orient Express. Station, Brigue.” KS023.06.“Looking ahead toward the mountains, from the station at Brigue.” KS023.07.
November 16: Train ride heading east, with stops at Zagreb (“Agram”) and Timisoara (“Temesvan”)
“At Steinbach, looking ahead. Simplon-Orient Express.” KS023.10.“At Steinbach, looking back.” KS023.09.“Train and station at Agram.” KS024.03.“Part of train and Easton Kelsey at Agram.” KS024.01.“Nearer view of Easton Kelsey and the side of the sleeping car, at Agram.” KS024.02.“The engine that pulled the train. Taken at Agram.” KS024.05.“Soldiers put off the train beyond Agram — tried to ride on sleeping car in corridor.” KS024.07.“Train in station somewhere east of Agram.” KS024.08.“The station at Temesvan.” KS024.09.“A few French soldiers at … station.” KS024.11.
November 18–25: Bucharest, Romania
“From the window of the Hotel Bristol toward the Carpati restaurant.” November 18. KS024.12.“A row of bootblacks — enough mud to give many a job.” November 18. KS025.02.“Mounted guards waiting for the royal carriage — opening of parliament.” November 20. KS025.03.“Soldiers waiting for the royal carriage.” November 20. KS025.04.“Royal carriage — king and queen going to open Parliament.” November 20. KS025.06.“Street view in the better part of Bucharest.” November 20. KS025.08.“Statuary group at head of street out beyond the Hotel Bristol.” November 20. KS025.11.“A street view and some boot blacks.” November 20. KS026.01.“Ponies with driver and a cartload of brush.” November 20. KS026.02.“Part of a squad of cavalry.” November 20. KS026.08.“Nearer view of the breech of the big Skoda gun out by the Exposition grounds.” November 20. KS026.11.“Adam Klissi reliefs. General view showing arrangement of slabs on the terrace by the Archaeological Museum.” November 21. 7.0059.“Adam Klissi reliefs. General view of about eight slabs of relief.” November 21. KS027.06.“Adam Klissi reliefs. Two slabs, one of soldiers with banners.” November 21. KS027.04.“Cart, driver and one ox, detail of the yoke used.” November 21. KS027.10.“Woman trying to sweep up mud — one of the ‘White Wings’ force.” November 21. KS028.11.“Cart with body woven like a basket.” November 23. KS029.04.“Street vendors by the market.” November 23. KS029.09.“By the market, selling things from small tables.” November 23. KS030.07.“Pork on the hoof — drove of hogs passing along the street.” November 23. KS030.10.“Church with three cupolas on Gravitei St.” November 23. KS031.08.“The ‘Carol I Foundation’ used as a library.” November 23. KS031.01.“Street view with Ford auto ad.– man spitting out Fords.” November 23. KS031.04.“Donkey and cart by the old market.” November 23. KS029.01.“Book stalls along by the river — a la Paris.” November 23. KS029.03.“Front of a Greek shop near the market — Panels between windows painted to show costumes apparently — possibly national.” November 24. KS032.12.“Women waiting, or resting, by the street, seated.” November 24. KS032.02.“A corner of the cloth market — fabrics mostly in the web.” November 24. KS032.03.“The earthen jug and jar section of the market.” November 24. KS032.04.“Slabs of soap corded up, for sale at the market.” November 24. KS032.05.“Sausages for sale.” November 24. KS032.11.“Row of book stalls along by the river — better view than the other of the same thing.” November 25. KS034.11.“Rugs for sale — hung along by the sidewalk.” November 25. KS033.07.“Oxen and cart with huge cask, down by the market.” November 25. KS035.01.“Just some onions for sale — at the market of course.” November 25. KS035.06.“The patient donkey and his cart, with some of the market beyond.” November 25. KS035.08.“A group at the entrance to the market.” November 25. KS035.10.“A close up view of a stall where earthen jugs, jars and pots are sold.” November 25. KS035.11.
November 26: Giurgiu, Romania
“The clock tower on a frosty morning.” KS036.06.“Looking down the street of shops. One sign with Trajan represented.” KS036.02.“General view on a street in the wrecked quarter.” 7.0089.“There we stayed, the Hotel Vlasca, the only hotel left standing in Giurgiu.” KS036.07.“A shop and the Cafe Verdun, where we listened to some folk songs.” KS036.09.“All that was left of what was a good hotel.” 7.0093.“Typical ruins after a Bulgarian bombardment.” KS036.04.
November 27–28: Bulgaria: Ruse (“Roustchouk”) and train trip to Sofia
“The engine and part of the train at Roustchouk.” November 27. KS037.02.“Our sleeper in the station at Roustchouk.” November 27. KS037.03.“A look ahead up the valley.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.04.“Typical view where a side stream comes down. Several houses in sight.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.05.“View back down the canyon. Good.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.09.“Rock slides from the side walls of the canyon.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.07.“Part of a station in the deep part of the canyon.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.12.“Train in the station at Svogue.” Ruse to Sofiia, November 28. KS039.03.
November 29–30: Sofia, Bulgaria
“An inscription (Latin) in the yard of the Museum.” November 29. KS039.04.“Union Palace Hotel.” November 30. KS039.09.“Mosque near the Municipal Baths.” November 30. KS039.11.“One of the lions at the head of the Lion Bridge. Peddler’s cart below.” November 30. KS039.12.“A priest at the entrance to the old sanctuary, now below the street level.” November 30. KS039.05.“Buffalo oxen, cart with load of wood.” November 30. KS040.02.“Group of women in national costume. Little out of focus.” November 30. KS040.01.
