Over the course of 2020, we have been following the travels of Francis Kelsey and his team as they made their way across Europe. They arrived in 1919 and stayed through August 1920. The past few months here on “From the Archives,” we went back to the start of their journey, recounting the team’s arrival in Europe in 1919. We have watched them land in England, travel about, and make their way to the mainland.
For this month’s “From the Archives,” we join the team as they end 1919. In early December, they were still in Bulgaria, where we left them last month. By December 3, they started their train trip from Sofia to Istanbul. In this series of photographs, we see the train and the sights along the way. It seems that Swain was fond of capturing their entire adventure, which so often meant their modes of transportation. Thus far on this trip, we have seen trains, and ships, cars, and more trains.
Swain also made sure to capture life as they saw it. People working, people milling about, people living their lives. We have seen his attention to architecture, or the remains of it after the ravages of war. On their way to Turkey, we see the same. Men at the station, the landscapes, and buildings along the way.
Once in Istanbul, Swain continued his relentless capture, giving us glimpses of the sites of the city, such as the Hagia Sophia, the bazaar, the Galata Bridge and Tower, the Blue Mosque (Mosque of Ahmed), and the “Bosporus” (Bosphorus). Along the waters, we see numerous ships and boats, including military ships from Italy, the US, and Greece.
After Christmas, the team left Istanbul (“Constantinople”) and traveled some more. More trains, more train stations, more views of the countryside. And more people they met along the way. We see Francis and Easton Kelsey, as well as George Swain himself, posing throughout. We are also allowed to see some of the repercussions of recent events. Miss Cushman’s “relief” kindergarten and all the children there. In photo 7.0156, we see an Armenian refugee camp. Francis Kelsey was heavily involved in the relief effort following the Armenian genocide. Later on this trip, they would spend more time with Armenians and with refugees in Syria.
For their last day of 1919, Kelsey and team were in Adana, not far from the modern Syrian border (and near Aleppo). Here they got more views of the locals, the buildings, the station, and life in general. And more relief work.
Swain was quite prolific with his photo capture. For December 1919 alone, we have records for 376 Swain photographs. We are presenting only 99 this month, but even these show the range of his photographs.
By this point, we have covered the majority of their visit to Europe and beyond, recounting the start of the journey as well as the tail end of the trip. Since the majority of their trip occurred in 1920, and we have already accompanied them throughout 2020, we will take our leave of the team here in Turkey. For glimpses of how the journey continued, be sure to go back and view previous blog posts from 2020, where we present their visits to Turkey, Syria, and elsewhere.
Wherever you find yourself this coming new year’s eve, we wish you the best and a happy holiday. Thank you for following Kelsey and Swain’s adventures this year. In 2021, we will return with new series and memories from the archives. Happy new year!
December 2, 1919: Sofia, Bulgaria
“Residence of the Archibishop near the cathedral.” KS040.05.“General view, from the steps of the new cathedral, across the square to the mountains beyond — latter clearly shown.” KS040.11.“Interior of the new cathedral, toward one transept; Christ in the Temple.” KS040.07.
December 3–4: Train ride from Sofia to Istanbul (“Constantinople”)
“One of the three engines that pulled us up out of the Sofia plain. Made in Germany in 1917.” KS041.05.“Dining and sleeping cars on the train — express.” KS041.07.“Just over the divide — train, station, mountains.” KS041.09.“The engine that pulled us into Constantinople. Had to stop to get its breath at the foot of one small grade.” KS042.02.“Typical group at a station, men and women.” December 4. KS042.03.
December 5–25: Istanbul (“Constantinople” / “Stamboul”)
“The umbrella mender sitting on the sidewalk on a typical street.” December 5. KS043.04.“Typical view on one of the modern streets. At this time, signs in French were allowed.” December 5. KS043.05.“Up the Golden Horn from the Galata Bridge, ferry steamer in the foreground.” December 5. KS043.07.“View toward Pera and the Galata Tower.” December 5. KS043.11.“The Galata Bride, looking toward Pera.” December 5. KS043.12.“From the Galata Tower, toward Stamboul, into the light. Mosques on sky line. Glint of Sea of Marmora in distance.” December 5. KS044.09.“Pair of buffalo oxen with loaded cart, probably sacks of grain.” December 5. KS045.03.“Men unloading a small boat.” December 5. KS045.06.No caption. Group of men. December 5. KS045.08“Sancta Sophia, from the square.” December 5. KS045.09.“A view on Pera Street, the great tourist shopping district, and the modern part of Constantinople.” December 7. KS045.12.“Another view of St. Sophia.” December 7. KS046.01.“The mosque of Ahmed, near St. Sophia.” December 9. KS046.08.“Turkish houses with wooden screens at the windows, in Stamboul.” December 9. KS046.09.“Shop where they pressed the Turkish tabbooses or fezes.” (With the passing of the fez this must be a vanished industry in 1927). December 9. KS046.10.“A tiny cobbler’s shop by the street in Stamboul.” December 9. KS046.11.“Street view with Turkish women — little off focus.” December 9. KS046.11.“Glimpse into courtyard in Stamboul.” December 9. KS047.02.“Men washing their feet before entering a mosque.” December 9. KS047.03.“Entrance to the shop of the antiquarian. Andronicos M. Kidaoglou, Imameli Han No. 10, (Merdjan), Stamboul.” December 9. KS047.07.“A busy corner near the Egyptian bazaar.” December 9. KS047.09.“Young man having a letter written by the old public letter writer. Near the Egyptian bazaar.” December 9. KS047.10.“Crowd of people by the booths of the Egyptian bazaar.” December 9. KS047.11.“A.C.R.N.E. (later “N.E.R.”) bakery, exterior. Formerly an Armenian bakery. Capacity 10,000 loaves a day, but could be doubled with full supply of flour. Bread furnished free to orphan establishments, balance of bread sold for 10 piastres a loaf — ‘about half the cost when stealing is deducted’ — Maj. Arnold.” December 18. 7.0096.“N.E.R. bakery, sacks of flour in the storeroom up stairs.” December 18. 7.0099.“Scutari. Bargaining for charcoal.” December 21. KS049.03.“Scutari. Row of old wooden Turkish houses near the cemetery — of such are fire hazards made.” December 21. KS050.12.“A pile of mine sweepers on the dock.” December 22. KS051A.01.“An Italian destroyer at an anchor in the harbor.” December 22. KS051A.02.“U.S.S. GALVESTON moored to the dock. Taken from the shore.” December 22. 7.0095.“Looking up along the shores of the Bosporus from the U.S.S. Galveston.” December 22. KS051A.03.“The old U.S.S. Mississippi, now Greek.” December 22. KS051A.04.“Bosporus. Anatoli Hissar, Castle of Asia, from the water.” December 22. KS051B.01.No caption. Bosphorus. December 22. KS051B.06.“Bosporus. Roumeli Hissar at sunset, into the light.” December 22. KS051B.10.“Two of the men servants at the Continental Hotel. Duplicate of KS052.02.” December 24. KS052.02.“Bread for sale.” December 24. KS052.07.“Porter carrying a large bureau with mirror, on his shoulders.” December 24. KS052.08.“Front of the Continental Hotel.” December 24. KS052.09.“Scene in a fruit market.” December 24. KS052.11.“Easton Kelsey by the parapet of one of the Seven Towers.” December 24. KS053.12.“Bosporus. From the hill back, looking through between the two outer towers of Roumeli Hissar, across the Bosporus toward Anatoli Hissar and the surrounding country. Long focus lens — better view than the preceding — 70127.” On the verso of the photograph is written in Swain’s hand: “Roumeli Hissar where Mohammedans crossed into Europe. Bosphorus 1/2 mile (west?).” 7.0129.“The crew of the U.S.N. launch that took us down to the Seven Towers.” December 24. KS054.01.“Easton Kelsey by the flag in the stern of the launch.” December 24. KS054.08.“G.R. Swain by the flag in the stern of the launch. Undertimed.” December 24. KS054.09.“Mr. Perry, Mr. Bristol and Mr. Stevens, photographed in the yard of the Y.M.C.A.” (Last picture taken of Mr. Perry before he was shot on the Aintab road.) Second copy of photo has its own caption: “Left to right: James Perry, killed near Aintab, February 1; Secretary Bristol and Associate Secretary Stevens, of the Y.M.C.A. Association in Constantinople, photograph made December 25, 1919. Photograph by George R. Swain.” December 25. 7.0012.
December 27–28: Train ride from Derince (“Derindje”) to Konya (“Konia”)
“The A.C.R.N.E. restaurant at Derindje. Derindje was the landing point for stuff by steamer from the U.S.A. and other places at this time.” December 27. KS056.01.“Approaching Affiun Kara Hissar, the junction point for the line from Smyrna. High bluffs near the line.” December 28. KS056.05.“Just a crowd by the train at a station.” December 28. DKS056.06.“Just a snap shot on a station platform. Professor (Francis W.) Kelsey at the left. Well built station.” December 28. KS056.08.“Line of five Hindoo soldiers at a station.” December 28. KS056.09.“Group of native men at one of the stations.” December 28. KS056.10.“A native omnibus — araba. This is a four-wheeled vehicle.” December 28. KS056.11.“Party that travelled down through Asia Minor in freight cars. Same as 7.147, except that in this one the Armenian cook is standing in the door of the Diner.” (Figure on left with hat and topcoat looks very much like F. Kelsey. DSB.) Ula Kushla, Turkey. December 28. 7.0148.“Our four freight cars de luxe. The Armenian cook is standing in the door of the dining car.” December 28. KS057.05.“Five of the party in the door of the dining car. The man is Major Arnold.” December 28. KS057.04.
December 29: Konya (“Konia”)
“A poverty stricken woman in the street.” KS057.09.“A group of ‘relief’ kindergarten children. Miss Cushman’s work.” KS057.10.“A new boy coming to the school. Miss Cushman’s work.” KS057.11.“Miss Cushman talking to some boys.” KS057.12.“Children doing kindergarten exercises.” KS058.01.“Another kindergarten exercise — little out of focus.” KS058.03.“General view of Miss Cushman’s ‘plant’, the American Polyclinic.” (Used as a hotel in September 1924). KS058.05.“Some native women, veiled, going by the fountain in front of Miss Cushman’s.” KS058.07.“The Reo Speed Wagon in front of the entrance to Miss Cushman’s – the American Polyclinic.” KS058.08.“Street view — shutter too slow.” KS058.09.“Women by a mosque — likely beggars.” KS058.10.“General view of the approach to the Museum.” (Practically unchanged in 1924). KS059.02.“Ruins of the Armenian church.” KS059.05.
December 30: Train ride from Konya to Adana
“A caravan encamped, somewhere south of Konia.” KS059.09.“A near view of some camels.” KS059.10.“Crowd on the station platform at Eregli.” KS059.11.“Shepherd with wide coat — moved a little.” KS060.05.“Group, most of the men of our party, in front of the A.C.R.N.E. house at Ula Kushla.” KS060.09.“A glimpse into the heart of the Taurus range.” KS061.05.“The station at Tchefte Khan.” KS062.01.“Station and mountain, taken from top of train.” KS062.09.
December 31: Adana
“General view of part of Armenian refugee camp at Adana. Armenians were moved here from Aleppo. Tents were ditched and comfortably dry.” 7.0156.“Demobilized Turkish soldiers at the Adana station.” KS062.12.“Car with BAGDAD in metal letters on the side — railway car.” KS063.02.“Camels by the station.” KS064.02.“Group of fairly well dressed natives, probably mostly Turkish.” KS064.06.“Exterior of the Adana station. Expanse of sloppy mud, woman with basket walking through it.” KS063.05.“Woman (Armenian?) and child in street by wall.” KS063.07.“Group of natives bolling cotton by hand, on the sidewalk just outside the hospital.” KS063.09.“Gateway to the hospital, American.” KS063.08.“Very similar to the preceding, KS063.10, but group in slightly different position.” KS063.11.“General view along the corridor (arcade) of the Hospital.” KS063.12.“An English industrial “plant” — relief work. Interior, time exposure, some moved.” KS064.08.“Group of Miss Webb’s girls in the courtyard with looms, machines, etc. Three or four Armenian girl-mothers at the left in the foreground.” 7.0154.“At Miss Webb’s school. Three Armenian girls and the rugs they had been weaving.” On the verso of the photograph is written in Swain’s hand: “Girls of Adana, weaving rugs.” 7.0153.
Over the past few months, we have been recounting Francis Kelsey’s, George Swain’s, and the rest of the team’s year-long trip to Europe, Southwest Asia, and North Africa. Back in September of 1919, the team made their way from Ann Arbor to Detroit and then to New York City in order to cross the Atlantic so they could visit those areas affected by the Great War (World War I). The trip lasted through August 1920, when they returned to Michigan.
At the onset of the trip, the team landed in the United Kingdom and made their way south, visiting several towns and taking stock of the land which had been ravaged by war for years. They also were able to connect with colleagues and friends. Over the course of months, they made their way across Europe, heading toward Greece, Turkey, and Egypt.
For this month’s “From the Archives,” we present the continuation of this trip. In November 1919, the team found themselves primarily in Romania (“Roumania”), Bulgaria, and Serbia (“Servia”). They began the month in Paris (KS023.02, mandatory Eiffel Tower view), then made their way east through Switzerland and arrived in Serbia. In Serbia, we mostly see the surrounding landscapes, the train station, and some soldiers. We also catch a glimpse of Easton Kelsey, Francis Kelsey’s son. It was not just the University of Michigan faculty and staff on this trip, but some family members as well.
The team continued their voyage to Romania, staying in Bucharest. Swain captures life there, from the view from their hotel room to the procession of the royal carriage. We also see children (bootblacks) waiting for work, various buildings they came across, the market and all its wares for sale (soap, sausages, rugs, books, etc.), and an interesting ad for Ford automobiles. Outside of Bucharest, in Adam Klissi (modern Adamclisi), we see a selection of photos for the Tropaeum Traiani, which was originally constructed in 109 CE.
Swain and the rest visit other regions of Romania, where they see the effects of the war, before they arrive in Bulgaria. Once in Sofia, they visit the museum, observe the locals, and admire the buildings. And here is where they ended in late November 1919. Though already in Europe for three months, their journey is still just beginning. Kelsey and crew will soon arrive in Turkey, where they will ring in 1920. Be sure to return next month to see the amazing views they will treat us to.
November 9, 1919: Paris, France
“The Eiffel tower at sunset.” KS023.02.
November 15: Brigue, Switzerland
“Ascending the valley toward Brigue; shows head of train as well as view.” KS023.04.“Parts of two cars of the Simplon-Orient Express. Station, Brigue.” KS023.06.“Looking ahead toward the mountains, from the station at Brigue.” KS023.07.
November 16: Train ride heading east, with stops at Zagreb (“Agram”) and Timisoara (“Temesvan”)
“At Steinbach, looking ahead. Simplon-Orient Express.” KS023.10.“At Steinbach, looking back.” KS023.09.“Train and station at Agram.” KS024.03.“Part of train and Easton Kelsey at Agram.” KS024.01.“Nearer view of Easton Kelsey and the side of the sleeping car, at Agram.” KS024.02.“The engine that pulled the train. Taken at Agram.” KS024.05.“Soldiers put off the train beyond Agram — tried to ride on sleeping car in corridor.” KS024.07.“Train in station somewhere east of Agram.” KS024.08.“The station at Temesvan.” KS024.09.“A few French soldiers at … station.” KS024.11.
November 18–25: Bucharest, Romania
“From the window of the Hotel Bristol toward the Carpati restaurant.” November 18. KS024.12.“A row of bootblacks — enough mud to give many a job.” November 18. KS025.02.“Mounted guards waiting for the royal carriage — opening of parliament.” November 20. KS025.03.“Soldiers waiting for the royal carriage.” November 20. KS025.04.“Royal carriage — king and queen going to open Parliament.” November 20. KS025.06.“Street view in the better part of Bucharest.” November 20. KS025.08.“Statuary group at head of street out beyond the Hotel Bristol.” November 20. KS025.11.“A street view and some boot blacks.” November 20. KS026.01.“Ponies with driver and a cartload of brush.” November 20. KS026.02.“Part of a squad of cavalry.” November 20. KS026.08.“Nearer view of the breech of the big Skoda gun out by the Exposition grounds.” November 20. KS026.11.“Adam Klissi reliefs. General view showing arrangement of slabs on the terrace by the Archaeological Museum.” November 21. 7.0059.“Adam Klissi reliefs. General view of about eight slabs of relief.” November 21. KS027.06.“Adam Klissi reliefs. Two slabs, one of soldiers with banners.” November 21. KS027.04.“Cart, driver and one ox, detail of the yoke used.” November 21. KS027.10.“Woman trying to sweep up mud — one of the ‘White Wings’ force.” November 21. KS028.11.“Cart with body woven like a basket.” November 23. KS029.04.“Street vendors by the market.” November 23. KS029.09.“By the market, selling things from small tables.” November 23. KS030.07.“Pork on the hoof — drove of hogs passing along the street.” November 23. KS030.10.“Church with three cupolas on Gravitei St.” November 23. KS031.08.“The ‘Carol I Foundation’ used as a library.” November 23. KS031.01.“Street view with Ford auto ad.– man spitting out Fords.” November 23. KS031.04.“Donkey and cart by the old market.” November 23. KS029.01.“Book stalls along by the river — a la Paris.” November 23. KS029.03.“Front of a Greek shop near the market — Panels between windows painted to show costumes apparently — possibly national.” November 24. KS032.12.“Women waiting, or resting, by the street, seated.” November 24. KS032.02.“A corner of the cloth market — fabrics mostly in the web.” November 24. KS032.03.“The earthen jug and jar section of the market.” November 24. KS032.04.“Slabs of soap corded up, for sale at the market.” November 24. KS032.05.“Sausages for sale.” November 24. KS032.11.“Row of book stalls along by the river — better view than the other of the same thing.” November 25. KS034.11.“Rugs for sale — hung along by the sidewalk.” November 25. KS033.07.“Oxen and cart with huge cask, down by the market.” November 25. KS035.01.“Just some onions for sale — at the market of course.” November 25. KS035.06.“The patient donkey and his cart, with some of the market beyond.” November 25. KS035.08.“A group at the entrance to the market.” November 25. KS035.10.“A close up view of a stall where earthen jugs, jars and pots are sold.” November 25. KS035.11.
November 26: Giurgiu, Romania
“The clock tower on a frosty morning.” KS036.06.“Looking down the street of shops. One sign with Trajan represented.” KS036.02.“General view on a street in the wrecked quarter.” 7.0089.“There we stayed, the Hotel Vlasca, the only hotel left standing in Giurgiu.” KS036.07.“A shop and the Cafe Verdun, where we listened to some folk songs.” KS036.09.“All that was left of what was a good hotel.” 7.0093.“Typical ruins after a Bulgarian bombardment.” KS036.04.
November 27–28: Bulgaria: Ruse (“Roustchouk”) and train trip to Sofia
“The engine and part of the train at Roustchouk.” November 27. KS037.02.“Our sleeper in the station at Roustchouk.” November 27. KS037.03.“A look ahead up the valley.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.04.“Typical view where a side stream comes down. Several houses in sight.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.05.“View back down the canyon. Good.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.09.“Rock slides from the side walls of the canyon.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.07.“Part of a station in the deep part of the canyon.” Ruse to Sofia, November 28. KS038.12.“Train in the station at Svogue.” Ruse to Sofiia, November 28. KS039.03.
November 29–30: Sofia, Bulgaria
“An inscription (Latin) in the yard of the Museum.” November 29. KS039.04.“Union Palace Hotel.” November 30. KS039.09.“Mosque near the Municipal Baths.” November 30. KS039.11.“One of the lions at the head of the Lion Bridge. Peddler’s cart below.” November 30. KS039.12.“A priest at the entrance to the old sanctuary, now below the street level.” November 30. KS039.05.“Buffalo oxen, cart with load of wood.” November 30. KS040.02.“Group of women in national costume. Little out of focus.” November 30. KS040.01.
1919–1920 proved an adventurous year for Francis Kelsey and his team, and we have been sharing those adventures over the past few months through this blog. Last month, we saw how the adventure began, with a train ride from Detroit to New York City, followed by a sea voyage to England. For the month of September, the team stayed in those locations, wandering from Edinburgh to London.
For this month’s “From the Archives,” we continue this journey. In early October 1919, the team was still in England, finishing up some travels there. On October 10, they are in London, and they move south to Folkestone, near Dover. From there, Kelsey, Swain, and others board ships to cross the Channel. They arrive in Boulogne, France, and quickly make their way to Paris. While in Paris, we get glimpses of the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, the Arc de Triomphe, and of life on the streets. Swain captured a garbage wagon, a woman sweeping, a fish stand on the street, and a flower pushcart. Daily life as it happened in Paris 1919. And time for sightseeing.
After a few days in Paris, they move on to Meaux, Chateau-Thierry, Rheims. They see through cathedrals, bridges, and various structures along the way. And they get reminders of the recent past. Ruined houses and debris. Homes “pitted with bullets.” Wrecked towns, wrecked factories, a wrecked armored car, wrecked forests and trees. Swain sees French soldiers, German prisoners eating soup and clearing rubbish, a war cemetery, a German prisoner’s camp, a shell dump, German headquarters.
From Rheims (or Reims), they move to Berry-au-Bac and onto Soissons. In Berry-au-Bac, Swain captures Kelsey and a French officer standing by a German trench. The photo appears odd, as Swain accidentally double-exposed the frame. We see trees superimposed on the photo, and Kelsey’s face is distorted. The hat, the build, and the beard are definitely Kelsey, even without being able to see the face.
Once they have seen the vicinity, the team returns to Paris, where they visit the Louvre and see other monuments throughout the city. While outside Paris, Swain used the Cirkut camera to capture Berry-au-Bac. The Cirkut camera was designed to use special film, and had a spring mechanism that would render panoramic photographs. An earlier “From the Archives” blog entry highlighted a number of these panoramics, as it was used throughout North Africa, Turkey, and Europe.
Throughout it all, Swain took notes on his photographs so he could remember and document them later. He was using several cameras: the Cirkut, a handheld Kodak camera, and a view camera. He had to keep track of all these images somehow. And it is those notes that led to our archival photographs database.
It must have been shocking to see the remains of war and the destruction from the Great War. Due to the ongoing conflict, it was difficult for Americans to visit Europe. And when they did, they found a very different Europe from what they remembered. As noted numerous times in previous blog entries, Swain captured life returning to a new normal. People in the streets making a living. Clearing up the debris. Getting on to new business.
From France, the team would carry on to other parts of Europe. The last entry for October is the 20th, so our next photos will be from November 1919. Those will be presented next month, so be sure to return to see where our adventurers rode off to next!
October 10: London and passage to France via the English Channel
“National Gallery and St. Martin’s, London.” KS013.01.“How autos are carried on the channel steamers.” KS013.07.“Bow of steamer and head of pier.” KS013.05.“Chalk cliffs near the harbor, from the steamer.” KS013.04.“Another view of the chalk cliffs near Folkestone.” KS013.08.“Cloud and sunlight effect, from the steamer.” KS013.09.“Fishing boat and tug. French coast line in the distance.” KS013.11.“A little of the city seen from the steamer.” KS014.01.
October 11–14: Paris, France
“Statue of the city of Strassburg, Place de la Concorde.” KS014.03.“Eiffel Tower at sunset, from the Seine.” KS014.04.“Push cart peddlers in the Rue St. Honoré (not there in 1925).” KS014.06.“A nearer view of the old women with the push carts, Rue St. Honoré.” KS014.07.“Part of the Tuileries Garden and the Arc du Carousel.” KS014.08.“A news stand, kept by a woman.” KS014.09.“A Paris garbage wagon.” KS014.10.“Old woman sweeping by garbage wagon. Shutter too slow.” KS014.11.“A flower push cart. Poor.” KS014.12.“A street fish stand. Little out of focus.” KS015.01.“Narrow uphill street leading toward a Montmartre.” KS015.02.“A bit of the Monmartre cemetery, showing the density of population.” KS015.03.“Just a bit of the narrow part of the Rue de Rivoli.” KS015.04.“General view of the Place de la Concorde, traffic in foreground.” KS015_06.“One of the masculine public conveniences of Paris — typical of Western Europe!” KS015.07.“Temporary victory monument, by the Avenue Champs Elysées. Figure is the Victory of Samothrace.” KS015.08.“Another rather more distance view of the temporary victory monument; it is also from a different point of view.” KS015.11.“Part of the facade of the Grand Palais, where the auto show was held.” KS015.12.“Part of the Paris Auto Show, Grand Palais.” KS015.09.“A bridge over the Seine and the Eiffel Tower.” KS016.02.“On top the Arc du Triomphe.” KS016.03.“One wedge of buildings as seen from the top of the Arc du Triomphe. Hazy in distance.” KS016.04.“Mr. Flack on top the Arc du Triomphe.” KS016.05.“Toward the Eiffel Tower from the top of the Arc du Triomphe.” KS016.06.
October 15: Meaux, Chateau Thierry, and Reims, France
“Facade of the cathedral.” KS016.07.“The Sossuet Memorial, in the cathedral of Meaux.” KS016.08.“Nave of the cathedral toward the apse.” KS016.09.“One of the aisles of the cathedral.” KS016.10.“Street view at Meaux.” KS016.11.“Bridge over the Marne at Trilport.” KS017.01.“Ruined houses and street choked up with debris.” KS017.02.“Just a street corner in the town.” KS017.04.“Bridge held by the Americans, view from the end by the Germans. Temporary bridge in position in the view.” KS017.06.“Another bridge from the same end. See KS017.06.” KS017.07.“Just a street view. House roofs knocked to pieces.” KS017.08.“Same bridge from the American end. See KS017.08 and KS017.07.” KS017.09.“Another view from the same end showing houses on other side riddled with American fire. A metal plate has been set in the bridge approach on this side reading, ‘On this site will be erected a monument commemorating the services of the 3rd Division, U.S.A., 1918.'” KS017.10.“More ruined houses.” KS017.11.“Wreckage of an ammunition train blown up by mines.” KS018.03.“War cemetery. White crosses French; black, German. On the French crosses, name and “Mort Pour la France.” Reims. KS018.05.
October 16–17: Reims
“Toward Rheims from road running northeast from town. Wire entanglements on right and left. Trees more than half destroyed by gun fire. German front lines ran through hollow at foot of hill. Rheims cathedral dimly seen in the distance. Weather cloudy and hazy at time of exposure. Shows how Germans could observe effect of every shell fired at the cathedral.” 7.0001.“Toward Rheims from more nearly north than the preceding. Shows same road at left. Wire entanglements in immediate foreground. Shows cathedral and some of the town. Countryside waste of weeds, trenches and wire entanglements. Taken under adverse weather conditions.” Text attached to photo: “Reims and its cathedral as seen through a curtain of rain from the second line German trenches, October 16, 1919. Wrecked barbed wire entanglement in the foreground. Photo by George Swain, University of Michigan collection.” 7.0002.“Facade of Rheims cathedral, taken with 12-inch lens. From the square directly in front. On right and left, rubbish of wrecked buildings cleared from the street. Note holes knocked in towers.” Text attached to photo: “Shell of Reims Cathedral. The interior was gutted by fire. Part of the vaulted ceiling and roof fell in. Much of the ceiling still left over the nave is cracked and threatens to fall, so that visitors are not allowed to pass under it. Photo by George R. Swain, October 16, 1919, through a thin curtain of rain. University of Michigan collection.” 7.0007.“Long-focus view of part of one side of cathedral to show damage by fire and bombardment.” 7.0011.“Interior of cathedral looking from the rear toward the apse. Visitors allowed only inside the door for fear roof might fall. Note hole in back end of roof. Also two smaller holes at right overhead. Stained glass shattered to tiny bits. Note big unexploded shell in forground. Custodian asserted not one shell exploded inside the building.” 7.0012.“Hotel Lafayette, our army Cadillac in front.” KS018.08.“Square out in front of the cathedral, not looking toward the cathedral.” KS018.09.“A glimpse from the roof of the Hotel Lafayette.” KS018.12.“Across the street from a window on the second floor of the hotel.” KS019.01.“From the roof of the Hotel Lafayette, to the left.” KS019.02.“Some of the ruins out in front of the cathedral.” KS019.03.“The towers of the Rheims cathedral –camera pointed up purposely.” KS019.04.“Tiny corner tower on building near front of cathedral.” KS019.07.“Right hand side of the roof of the cathedral.” KS019.08.“German prisoners crossing in front of the cathedral.” KS019.09.“In the square in front of the cathedral. Mrs. Kelsey and Rediger, our chauffeur and the army Cadillac.” KS019.10.“German prisoners clearing away rubbish from the front of the cathedral.” KS019.11.“Serving German prisoners with soup for lunch, out in front of the cathedral.” KS019.12.
October 17–18: Berry-au-Bac and Soissons
“On the road from Rheims to Berry-au-Bac. Trees all wrecked. Ruins of town on the left as well.” KS020.01.“Wrecked town passed on the road. Nothing but a few walls.” KS020.02.“Old dugouts and trees wrecked by gun fire.” KS020.04.“Wrecked sugar factory at Berry-au-Bac.” KS020.08.“Our auto, the road and a sign “Achtung! Eisenbahn.” not far from the bridge at Berry-au-Bac. It was a little narrow gauge road, presumably for ammunition and supplies.” KS020.10.“Professor Kelsey and French officer standing by German trench of 1914 (probably a double, but possibly of use).” KS021.08.“Looking down the ridge between the Aisne and the Miette brook. The line of trees begining at the left and extending three quarters the way across the view, marks the course of the Aisne. The trees at the right mark the Miette brook. A German prisoners’ camp is near the right. This side of that, and crossing the Miette runs the road to Laon. The view is diversified with old trenches, shell holes and the remains of wire entanglemnts. A dug out in the foreground. The view does not extend far enough to the left to show Berry-au-Bac. Size, 9 1/2 x 30 in.” Cirkut001.“Looking down along the ridge between the Aisne and Miette, especially the side toward the Miette, marked by the trees. The road down the ridge and going to Laon shows in the center of the view. Old trenches and shell holes right and left. The Aisne is located by the trees in the distance at the extreme left of the picture. Size, 9 1/2 x 28 in.” Cirkut004.“Shell dump. Mostly 75’s by the road from Berry-au-Bac to Laon. Rediger standing at right.” KS021.01.“German prisoners’ camp and wire stockage, near the Miette brook, at the left of the road to Laon. This is near the slope where Caesar drew up his troops.” KS021.04.“Wrecked armored car, camouflaged, probably French, on the Miette side of the slope of the ridge. Easton Kelsey inside for scale.” KS021.05.“Remains of German camoflage by the road running down the ridge between the Aisne and the Miette.” KS021.09.“Canal boats by empty canal by Berry-au-Bac, seen from the crater, Hill 108.” KS021.10.“Wrecked forest on the road to Pontavert near Berry-au-Bac.” KS021.11.“Ruins of Pontavert.” KS021.12.“Headquarters of German commander, road from Pontavert to Soissons.” KS022.01.“Rediger replacing a tire on the Cadillac. Not far from Soissons.” KS022.02.“Pair of traction engines, one each side, pulling four-plow back and forth across the field. Near Soissons.” KS022.03.“Part of the wrecked facade of the Soissons cathedral.” KS022.04.“Showing how the backbone of the Soissons cathedral was broken. The structure was damaged beyond repair. A part seems to have been left as a monument. I saw it in 1925 and 1926.” KS022.05.
October 20: Paris
“Company of French soldiers resting by the Seine, Paris.” KS022.06.“Part of the facade of the Louvre.” KS022.08.“The Gambetta statue and its environment, Tuileries Gardens.” KS022.09.“The end of the Arc du Carousel toward the Seine.” KS022.10.“The Arc du Carousel in its environment, seen from the side toward the Place de la Concorde.” KS022.11.“One of the fountains of the Place de la Concorde.” KS022.12.“One of the monuments at the head of the bridge of Alexander III.” KS023.01.
In December, many of us spend a lot of time at local stores perusing goods that we think would make great gifts for our loved ones. We spend hours trying to find the perfect gift, the item that shows how we think about those we care about, whether they are close to us or far away.
For this month’s “From the Archives,” we go one hundred years back in time, to December 1919, to find a University of Michigan staff member far from home but doing the same thing — going to shops and markets, perhaps to find souvenirs to send back home to Michigan. In 1919 and 1920, U-M photographer George R. Swain accompanied Francis Kelsey on an expedition through Europe and the Mediterranean region. Their goal was to document classical sites as well as to identify sites that might have potential for future excavations.
Here we present seven images taken by Swain in Istanbul — or Constantinople, as it was referred to then (some photo captions refer to the area of “Stamboul”). While traveling, Swain photographed not only archaeological artifacts, sites, and structures, nor did he focus solely on collections at other museums. Almost everywhere he went, Swain turned the camera around to his surroundings, to the people in the area, offering us a glimpse into life in those countries at that time.
The photos shown here cover a time period of 20 days, from 5 December to 24 December 1919. Swain captures life at several shops and businesses in Istanbul. We see a person fixing umbrellas. A cobbler’s shop. A busy corner at the bazaar. Bread and fruit for sale. All the shopping Swain chose to capture.
These photographs allow us to see what the city was like one hundred years ago. People who visit Istanbul now will notice many similarities, but also many differences. The bazaar, though altered, remains. Maybe some of those same shops are still there! And the sentiment is the same. People going about doing their shopping, purchasing items they need, or gifts for friends and family. Now in 2019, we continue doing the same.
“The umbrella mender sitting on the sidewalk on a typical street.” 5 December 1919. KS043.4.“Shop where they pressed the Turkish tabbooses or fezes.” 9 December 1919. (With the passing of the fez, this was a vanished industry by 1927.) KS046.10.“A tiny cobbler’s shop by the street in Stamboul.” 9 December 1919. KS046.11.“A busy corner near the Egyptian bazaar.” 9 December 1919. KS047.9.“Crowd of people by the booths of the Egyptian bazaar.” 9 December 1919. KS047.11.“Bread for sale.” 24 December 1919. KS052.7.“Scene in a fruit market.” 24 December 1919. KS052.11.
